![]() I know a few have 10" subs and other style boxes but I was (am still am) pretty close with the seat spacing when the seat is up. I chose these numbers based on the volume and depth of the speakers. I cut out the height on the side with the amp to accommodate the amp. ![]() The base is 5.5" but the actual enclose speaker box portion on the box is 23" width x 15" height x 2.75" top depth x 3.75 bottom depth. I made the notches to fit above the bolts on the floor and used some brackets with nuts to help secure the box once it was in.īuilt the box with the following dimensions. Again, I put it in the split tubing for protection and a more factory look.īuilt a box to fit behind the seat. I did break a couple of the small white clips but ordered some new ones before I re-installed. ![]() Ran power and signal down the driver side door sill area. I used some little brackets so I could tip-tie the cable for security. I put the power in split tubing for a better factory look. I ran the power from the battery to the driver side firewall grommet area with the bundle of wires. The bracket mounted up easily and is very stable. I had to modify the 2013-2014 Kicker bracket to allow it to mount under the 2015 dash. Only had to cut the rear carpet to allow placement of sub. I did not want to relocate the rear window motor or manipulate anything major on the truck. Custom box that fits behind the seat with 2 8" Kicker CompRT shallow mount subs.Ĥ. Used a Kicker 250.1 amp that I had already but might upgrade at a later date.ģ. Sold the speakers and under seat subwoofer since I wanted to retain full use of floor.Ģ. Harness matched perfect to my touchscreen with Navigation OEM unit. Kicker DSP multichannel amp from the 2013-2014 VSS kit from Rogel Ford. Like when an owners second key is never used, eventually it stops working and needs reconnecting or replacing.I know there are other thread and did not want to post this on those threads. As on other cars they will lose the sync if not used over time. I know on some cars it recommended doing that, to keep the fobs in sync with the vehicle. It can help to put lock cylinder lube every now and then. That was known to crack reducing range, and common fix being to put a bunch of little binder clips that squeeze it together, being much cheaper than replacement. On my last car it was a plastic circuit board antenna at the top rear of headliner to have line of sight through glass. I’m just not 100% sure yet if the reciever is in fact what I think it is, and can be ruled out. ![]() I’ll have to find that recent thread showing cheap tools and parts list needed to DIY this. I think there’s even a 2-in-1 version out there to integrate key and fob. Might try throwing two new key fobs (and one blade) at it to see what happens. But that’s fixable by re-melting the solder connections that visibly crack. I’m guessing the fob has simply gone bad from high age and may have something to do with the circuit board inside, and need replacement.Īfter all, the overhead temp display also has a circuit board and we all know that goes bad over time. Searching the part online, they look robust. Long prior to that, case was changed to AJT Designs fob without issueĪlso looked inside to verify battery contacts not overly flat or anythingįrom what I’ve read, the signal reciever is a box hidden behind the glovebox. Years later all of a sudden, fob remote lock/unlock button range decreased from distance, to you have to be standing next to a door basically. Bought the truck used came with one key set.
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